A reprieve....

Happy Monday Everyone!

Scott, maybe the tide is turning. I won last night at cribbage, and they are letting us stay until Wednesday. Their cousin from Fata Hiva will have to wait. Hopefully, the part will be here by then. Checking this morning, it is still in Auckland.

As Raita said this morning, "....look around maybe there is some reason you're here...". She's a lovely Marquisean whose lovely family owns this pension/restaurant. She makes the best sorbet with fresh fruit. She is recovering from breast cancer & has taken a leave from teaching English in the high school.

Change is always an chance to pause and reflect....and what always is of primary importance is family and friends. A special gift we have. Love, Leslie & Paul

Where is Tom Hanks when you need him...

Tom would have found the right island...FedEx tracking shows our little package's route San Diego, Oakland, LA, Honolulu, New Zealand....wonder which of many islands it will go to next before Hiva Oa? Anyone venture a guess?

And, life on Hiva Oa continues...day 23. It's Mother's Day here. The family is off to the cemetery with flowers and wearing flower head wreaths...such a sweet family. George ( pizza chef son) made croissants today...so flaky better than the bakery.

Off to the boat to retrieve the Solarcaine ( not for sunburn -we're still a bit pale) for a rash. Dad, so glad we brought some.

Yesterday, we enjoyed an E ticket ride( for those of you not old enough that's the most adventurous rides at Disneyland and you only got 2 in the pack). In our Make Make rent a jeep, we saw wild goats, historical tikis, swam at a nice beach(not clear but less muddy)and drove (on the edge of the hillsides with ocean below)through dense terrain of palm trees and pines among other beautiful vegetation. When near an old palm plantation (copra production ) the roads were paved. Paul was an expert driver but we could have used one of your kidney belts( right, Guy, Scott & Kelly) used on dirt bikes).

Happy Memorial Day! And, so summer begins for you. Sunny here at the moment. Hugs to you all. Love, Leslie

Photo Missing from Day 18

Special service for children....

Day 18, Hiva Oa

Hi Everyone,  While walking early today, I saw families coming to church,  Church of immaculate Conception( a picturesque  shortcut to the bakery).  Most dressed in white or colorful more traditional look.  I think it is first communion, however, one person told me it was fete l'enfants.  Mothers were presented with flowers and children crosses( made out of mother of pearl??)

My favorite part of being here is observing community happenings.  Today was a special treat....

More delays....FedEx still has yet to make delivery...and so the cruise plans continues to be stalled.   

May rent a car this weekend and take an island tour of our own.  There appears to be a car rental.  Have a wonderful Memorial Day weekend.  Love Leslie & Paul

Sent from my iPhone

Day 14....at Hiva Oa

Bonjour, a very nice day off...lovely weather, read, did some anchorage planning, and Paul took his first swim in the SP( after the tide went out). It looked too rough for me.

Met a couple today who sailed here from Chicago in a 35' Beneteau ...figure that one out.

Hope you had a nice Sunday, too. Love, Leslie



If you've been keeping track, you've probably noticed that I was off by a few days...only 14 days here not 18...

Voila....sun & clearing....

Day 17 at Hiva Oa....

Bonjour,
Sun and clearing skies after 3 months of rain....
Airport is now open.....hopefully our parts will come on schedule 27th
Maybe even a flour delivery for baguettes et pastries....
Going to boat to do some cleaning/organizing & to get clean clothes...
Hopefully, will see John about a tour while it's sunny.
Scott, I'm still losing at cribbage...help! Love, Leslie

Day 16, Hiva Oa

Hmmm ....who stays in Hiva Oa past check in? The boats in the boat yard have all been here (repairing) for 2 yrs or more. Steve has prepared our ticket out. Parts were sent today to fix the gooseneck and boom vang. Heard that before?....we have a tracking number & should be here by 27th.

In the meantime, all is well once again at Relais Moehoe. Awakened last night by a roof leak( right onto my side of bed). It's fixed & our friend Lito redid the room. No need to worry about residue moisture when the humidity is already 100%.

A revised ETD & New Neighbors

Hi Everyone,

New discoveries when starting to repair boom, the vang mount is fractured and gooseneck is bent and unusable. Special thanks to Steve and Fritz, Pacific Offshore Rigging acquiring the parts so quickly. Extra thanks to Mark at Garhauer for building a custom vang mount. Will be shipped by FEDEX and hope to have in 10 days.

In the meantime, no room at the inn until Saturday. So, we'll be on the boat for 3 nights. Hope to get fresh tuna from Leo ...such a treat that will be.

Somehow, I forgot to tell you about the sperm whale that winked at me on our last morning at sea. We were enjoying our breakfast sitting in the cockpit when we got sprayed by what we thought was a wave. I turned to the right( at the stern). and passing by was this gray structure...although I didn't see his eye, I know he was passing by to give us a wink that all will be well. And, off he went. Didn't even think about taking his picture as it was a special moment I will not forget.

So, dad looks like the Padres can start winning anytime now so we have a worthwhile game to go to when we return. Looking forward to a ballpark frank with you.

Hope everyone is well. Time for graduations....Congratulations to Cory graduating from Durango HS top 10%* and off to UC Davis. And, to Faith and Isabella transitioning from middle to high school. Great times and futures ahead to our nephew and nieces!

Love, Leslie

Early morning walk...

Bonjour, Full trays at the boulangerie at 6:30....yum. Only people I saw on the streets. ..it's Sunday everything is closed except the bakery and 2 stores for a couple of hours. We're following the tradition and resting-no boat today.

Teri, I used the Nice n Easy, definitely easy and looks good( maybe in contrast to the gray). Now all I need is a haircut. Got some clean clothes from Sandra yesterday so life is good. 4 more bags come tomorrow...should improve condition on boat.

Reading Life with Picasso...
Love, Leslie

Our Friends, Fiona & Robin

Day 3 Hiva Oa

Bonsoir, Robin & Fiona (Monark)just stopped by to bring us star fruit and coconuts from their walk. Aren't they so cute. Vincent is here working with Paul on the rudder. They have a plan for tomorrow.

I'm making some pasta. Such a small village. Really only two restaurants open for dinner and they're a 45 min walk although someone usually offers is a ride when we're going to the village. The season's rains has made for a muddy runoff so the bay is not very appealing. We may try to get to other areas once we're just waiting for parts. Paul works on the boat and/or with the guys most of the day. We'll be ready to leave once the boat is fixed.

We're hopeful to be in a hotel on the 12th. It is at the restaurant we've eaten at a couple of times. Joe & his daughter run it. Be glad to have a shower and bathroom. Now we have to walk through the mud to the shack. Kind of like camping.

Oh best news of all... I found the boulangerie today. .Too late for croissants but had a tasty brioche and crusty baguette . Maybe, I'll get there earlier tomorrow.

Nice to be relaxing tonight. Plans are to leave once the boat is ready and clean( dirty from yard) . We'll probably go to Fata Hiva then up to Nuka Hiva. We'll see how this all goes. Both are day sails from here.

The boat is finally not rocking. And, it's a little cooler. Hopefully, no rain tonight .( then we have to close all the hatches). Love, Leslie

Bonjour, le jour 3, Hiva Oa

Bonjour, Still getting checked in, computer set ups, boat diagnosis...we're both well and having breakfast on the boat before going to the village. Rained hard last night...still hot, humid bugs here & there. Getting to know our landlord/mechanic. A sweet young couple who took a financial risk and opened this hard & bought the haul out trailer. Took Robin & Fiona to the Lodge for a thank you & celebration dinner. (Ok certainly not 3 star as noted) but a wonderful treat or us all. Interesting getting to know ( in person) people we have had a relationship with on radio.

When will this boat ever stop rocking?? We still brace ourselves when walking on it.
Dad, tell Freda happy birthday.

Hope everyone is well. Love, Leslie

Update from Leslie - Day 28

I received a text from Leslie. She says that she sent a blog post earlier today with a picture. I told her it hadn't arrived. She says their location in the yard is backed up against a hill and that their satellite coverage is spotty at best. She is working on getting a SIM card for her phone and WiFi setup, hopefully complete by tomorrow. Everything takes a long walk into the village and then lots of communication, office closed, etc. Sounds like things are definitely on "island time."

Paul has been working the the yard owner Vincent and has been in touch with Island Packet regarding their repairs. Parts to fix the boom have been ordered from Tahiti and should arrive by the end of this week.

Leslie says lots of work has been required to establish their "base" of operations. Staying on board is hot and humid and mosquitoes are a problem. They hope to get a room nearby soon.

G

Day 27 - dry land?

From the tracking map it looks like they are on land. It could just be the satellite phone. Can't wait to hear how it all went. G

Day 27...Land Ho...Hiva Oa

Hi Everyone,
What a beautiful entry into the Marquesas. We have already been welcomed by their Sea Rescue. . We are motoring in using the Hydrovane tiller and will enter the harbor/anchorage in about 1 1/2 hrs. The winds/seas were better than expected so we came in without assistance. At about 2:30, Rocinante will be hoisted out and moved to the shipyard.

So bonsoir for now. And merci, for following along and sending your love. Time to enjoy this beauty as we continue on our way.

Love, Leslie & Paul

Day 27 - 11:00am PDT

2pm PDT

11:00 am PDT
Live AIS screen showing Hiva Oa Coast Guard boat (turquoise) heading in Rocinante's (pink) direction. About 15 nautical miles out.

Position update - Day 27 - morning

Monday, May 8
9:00am PDT (16:00 GMT)

9 40.154 S  138 42.916 W
Course: 2.2 kts, 206° true.

95.8 nautical miles in last 24 hours (4 kts average)

2,879 nautical miles total

20.2 nautical miles to Hiva Oa (Atuona Bay)

Click here for current tracking map

Note from Geoff: It looks like they have made it! This will be my last daily position update for now. I can't wait to hear all the details! G

Day 27, 17.6nm to Cap Matafenua

Calmest seas/wind we've experienced....temperature perfect napped outside...more to come as we make landfall...after 27 days at sea...my Capt. & me aboard s/v Rocinante. Love, Leslie

Map of Hiva Oa

How the haul-out works

Position update - Day 26 - morning

Sunday, May 7
9:00am PDT (16:00 GMT)

8 13.891 S  138 01.Sun 7/May 15:49 GMT079 W
Course: 5.6 kts, 192° true.

124.9 nautical miles in last 24 hours (5.2 knots average)

2,783 nautical miles total

112.2 nautical miles to Hiva Oa (Atuona Bay)

Pictures of the yard at Hiva Oa

Note from Geoff: For info on Atuona Bay click here

Day 26 - My Favorite Watch

The moon and clouds playing cat & mouse create dramatic shapes throughout my 5:00am  watch. Later they become whimsical characters. You should have seen Harry Potter looking down with his eyes suggesting "I'm watching..."

Capt. briefs me, rain likely, on course at 205, bearing off broad reach but avoid 120 degrees apparent-wind angle. Jib is full & mainsail remains in its permanent reef on the strapped down boom. H-vane likes your personal touch to keep on course. It's warm, 10+ SE wind. Size of swells remain a mystery in darkness until they shoot a spray or knock you standing in the cockpit. At 6.7,kts and 116..5 nm kn to island Hiva Oa. Call me anytime" Capt reminds me as if I wouldn't. Capt. is both thoughtful and instructive during changeovers. Always sharing wondrous observations. Water is the drink (Capt.'s carefully crafted brew) of this voyage. Can't wait for an ice cold beverage or tea once I step on Terra Firma.

A Werther's Caramel is my choice of snack today. Time to begin my watch. Our speed is now 7....and the rain has come. Love Leslie

Day 25 - 216.7nm to Go

Hi Everyone,
Not sure which of my postings have made it to you. Seems to be delays going out.

Apologies & Congratulations to Rich and Linda....they actually came closest to our crossing the Equator. They almost aced it- great job! And Steve, you are still on the podium with second place.

We are nearing Hiva Oa, 216.7 nm where we will shout with glee...Land Ho. Because of our limited maneuverability (rudder & detached boom) their Coast Guard will assist us to the anchorage. What a relief! And, then it's off to the haulout for repairs and a donation to their economy no doubt. Bakery or laundry not sure which will be my priority.

Must get back to monitoring at the helm while Paul gets some sleep. It's a beautiful day for sailing if you had all the essentials. The water is such a deep navy. Take care. Love Leslie

Position update - Day 25 - morning

Saturday, May 6
9:00am PDT (16:00 GMT)

6 19.853 S  137 10.301 W
Course: 4.6 kts, 235° true.

124.7 nautical miles in last 24 hours (5.2 knots average)
2,658 nautical miles total

236.5 nautical miles to Hiva Oa (Atuona Bay)

Click here for live tracking map

Happy Birthday to Me - Thursday night

Just a brief post tonight. It's been a busy day aboard Rocinante. My birthday genie surprised me with a bag of goodies and thoughtful cards. Such a lovely start of the day.

Then, Paul discovered that the boom had separated from the mast. So, the rest of the day was spent securing the boom. We are proceeding to Hiva Oa (409 nm) now as they have a haul out yard. Our buddy boat, MonArk will follow a similar course case we need help nearby.

It's another beautiful night...11 kn winds rolly seas ( which I could do without) and just the sound of the waves.

Take care. Love, Leslie

** Note from Geoff - this post came in late. Hiva Oa is 361 nautical miles from this morning's position. It is shown on the Tracking map at Atuona.

Position update - Day 24 - morning

Friday, May 5
9:00am PDT (16:00 GMT)

4 25.367 S  136 21.033 W
Course: 4.2 kts, 202° true.

124.4 nautical miles in last 24 hours (5.2 knots average)
2,534.5 nautical miles total

351.8 nautical miles to Nuku Hiva (entrance to the Taiohae Bay)

Click here for current tracking map

Note from Geoff: Leslie says she has a couple of posts stuck in the outbound queue. Stay tuned.

353.3 Nm to land...Day 24

Happy Friday!

5:00 watches...love the sunrises! They are forever changing. Quite the blustery night...splashes into the cockpit, 5.6 kn with reefed jib & main(dbl-can't be changed), and a boom tied to the mast.

We'll be quite the site going into Hiva Oa. Paul has another first & challenge when we arrive. Imagine trying to park without being able to steer...it will have to be a masterful plan with Paul & Hydravane working together. And, then dropping the anchor...oh my. Stay tuned...hoping to arrive by Monday.

Happy Birthday, Barb!

Have a wonderful weekend! Love Leslie

Position update - Day 23 - morning

Thursday, May 4
9:00am PDT (16:00 GMT)

2 32.590 S  135 28.871 W
Course: 6.0 kts, 212° true.

105.6 nautical miles in last 24 hours (4.9 knots average)
2,410 nautical miles total
473.3 nautical miles to Nuku Hiva (entrance to the Taiohae Bay)

Click here to current tracking map

A toast to King Neptune....

Celebrations at the Equator.....even the stowaway, Pepe toasted King Neptune. So today we've been sailing the Southern Pacific. Low winds most of the day, high humidity, and rolly seas.

We've discovered that cockpit showers are more refreshing...too hot for solar showers now. It's been a busy day...i shopped the bins to select some items for the next few days' meals. Sure are a lot of can foods. I fixed a pork loin in the pressure cooker tonight. After browning it with onions, it only took ten minutes to cook. The broth was flavorful and was tasty on the mashed potatoes. My second attempt at baking bread was a bit of an improvement but still tasted like yeast. Any suggestions?

Nap time before my 11:00 -2:00 watch. Good night! Love, Leslie

.

A toast to King Neptune....

And the winner is...

Steve Mushovic, 16:02 Tuesday, the closest of 16 entries. Congratulations! And, thank you to all for playing making this occasion even more memorable with our friends and family's participation. Actual crossing time, was 10:04, PDT.

We honored King Neptune with a champagne toast provided by our dear friend, Bud, who we miss. We paired this vintage Dom Perignom, 1990, with our favorite popcorn warm & fresh from the microwave. Vintage Hostess chocolate cupcakes and Paul's "sailing" playlist were enjoyed. We took an oath of silence on the actual activity marking our transition from pollywog to shellback official. Hmmm...

Pretty surreal sailing through this significant place. A beautiful moon illuminated the wave action and a star-studded sky created a spectacular scene. More photos to follow.

We are now proceeding ever so slowly, 2.5kts, to Nuka Hiva, 581.6nm. Love Leslie and Paul

Position update - Day 22 - morning

Wednesday, May 3
9:00am PDT (16:00 GMT)

0 44.624 S  134 42.904 W
Course: 2.8 kts, 192° true.

105.7 nautical miles in last 24  hours (4.4 knots average)
2,292.6 nautical miles total

588.6 nautical miles to Nuku Hiva (entrance to the Taiohae Bay)

**Rocinante passed the equator sometime after 10:00pm PDT last night! We'll let Leslie and Paul fill in the details. Contratulations Shellbacks!

Click here for current tracking map.

Still not there....

Due to unexpected events beyond our control, we are still awaiting that unique experience of crossing the Equator. Hang in there...there are still contenders.

Later today, we are meeting up with our buddy boat, MonArk. With our ability to steer compromised (no self steering or auto helm), and possible complications if rudder breaks loose, we'll shadow each other to the Marquesas. They are wonderful to do this.

We can tell we're close....getting hotter and more humid by the day.

Stay tuned for Equator Crossing! Love, Leslie

Note from Geoff: If anyone is interested Robin and Fiona, the owners of MonArk were profiled in the September 2016 issue of Sail Magazine.

Click here to read the article: 5 Basic Tenets for a Two-captain Sailboat

Position update - Day 21 - morning

Tuesday, May 2
9:00am PDT (16:00 GMT)

1 00.713 N  134 48.600 W
Course: 2.5 kts, 79° true.

83.2 nautical miles in last 24 hours (3.5 knots average)
2,1869 nautical miles total

66 nautical miles to 0

676.8 nautical miles to Nuku Hiva (entrance to the Taiohae Bay)

Note: I spoke with Leslie on Monday. The main rudder is still attached, but it has broken free from the embedded rudder shaft and is thus swinging free. So, it is not usable for steering but is not impeding their progress. The external rudder on the Hydrovane self-steering system is smaller than the primary rudder but will be sufficiently powerful for them to control Rocinante. They have been in contact with another boat on the radio Net, the MonArk, which is transiting from Mexico to the Marquesas and yesterday was about 60 miles from them. The plan is to meet up with the MonArk and then sail together to the Marquesas.

For those who are curious. here is a picture of a Hydrovane set-up similar to that on Rocinante showing the external secondary rudder.

A typical Hydrovane installation. As the boat changes direction, the red wind vane deflects and turns the rudder to bring it back on course

Geoff

Day 20

Hi Everyone,

It's been a busy morning...the primary rudder finally gave way. We're using Hydrovane to steer us to Nuka Hiva....733.5nm.

The Coast Guard has been notified, and we have another sailboat (on their way to Marquesas) who will meet up with us later tonight. They'll escort us in case we need assistance.

So, when we make it to the Equator, we'll let you know.

Love Leslie

Position update - Day 20 - morning

Monday, May 1
9:00am PDT (16:00 GMT)

2 06.280 N  133 57.507 W
Course: 3.3 kts, 223° true.

87.5 nautical miles in last 24 hours (3.6 knots average)
2,103.6 nautical miles total

Click here for current tracking map

129.0560 nautical miles to 0 00.0