Hello from Oa Pou (Wapoo)

There is always so much to see whether on a crossing, at a secluded anchorage or in a port. It's Sunday morning, and we're anchored (bow & stern) at Baie D'Haikahau. It's sunny, a comfortable breeze and children are laughing & splashing at their Canoe Club ( children's education center for culture & water sports) and a cargo ship (just steamed in) is already unloading no doubt precious cargo.

The waterfront community center is finally quiet(music & wallops until 3:00 am) after the school's end of the year party last night. We attended with a family who owns the pension. The children's songs, dances, and costumes presented a delightful glimpse of the Marquesasn culture. Having spent the afternoon touring the island with Jerome( fireman, pension owner, here 18 years, native of France, wife native of Oa Pao), it was even more meaningful.

Wish I could send multiple photos at once because we have seen such beautiful & interesting sites/people. Since we celebrated our anniversary here, I've chosen photos of us. Thanks for your fun and caring anniversary notes. If we haven't answered them it's because of lack of wifi &/or powered cell phones. But your remembrances /stories added to our celebration.

There is much to do before we leave tomorrow for Nuka Hiva...where we were supposed to check in (Visa) when we entered French Polynesia 49 days ago. For those of you that like briefings vs. essays, I apologize for the length of this blog. We've experienced so much since our last blog. BTW, they have almost emptied the ship while I've been writing and the children are still in the water( and Paul is still napping ...hard for the capt. to sleep when there are winds/waves all night) Trucks ( everyone has one) are lined up to pick up their long awaited supplies. The stores will be full tomorrow.

Wishing you all the fun of summer. Glad to hear June gloom is gone but hear that Sacramento (from Katy) is already experiencing 100+. And, gardens are producing yummy veggies from Durango (Pat), strawberries in Bellvue (Susan) to cherries+ in Santa Rosa (Christine). Know that we are also enjoying island fruits but few veggies( they say too much rain)....pamplemousse, mangos, bananas. Hopefully, our Padres are on a winning streak...want to watch them in post season play with you, dad. Giants would be ok, too(.Scott & Guy). Love, Leslie

48th Anniversary

Hi Everyone, I'm without a Hallmark Store & Paul is without Tiffany's so how about helping us celebrate our anniversary 6/21 with a message, memory, or photo. We're having a wonderful trip together in spite of Rocinante's breakdowns. 47 years ago, we celebrated our first on a camping trip around the USA & Canada in a VW Bug with $1,000.. I never would have guessed that we'd be sailing the SP for our 48th. Hmmmm...what about the 50th?

So help us remember & celebrate with your remembrances....We'll toast you our loving family & friends wherever we end up in the 21st. Send as a comment on the blog posting or at my lesliegranger@rocketmail address which we can download when we get to a port.

Thank. Love & miss you, Leslie & Paul

Such beauty nature provides....

With the rains come beautiful rainbows but this is our first complete rainbow.

Hi Everyone, Hope you are enjoying your favorite summer activities. We will be leaving Baie Hanamoena for Baie Hapatoni about 3.5 miles south on Tahuata. A small village so we'll dinghy in to see & maybe have dinner & get some fresh fruit & veggies.. Another bay next door has the "best snorkeling in the Marquesas". Then, on to Fata Hiva.

Temperature is comfortable however it does rain everyday at some point. Actually, it provides an extra rinse for our laundry. Last night, there were 30-35 knot winds in our cove. Anchor is holding well. I slept outside until it rained again then made a quick run for it. It goes from no rain to buckets in a second.

When on shore, we saw dwellings but no people. We stay along the shoreline as it seems intrusive to go further or take photos. It looks like a movie set perfectly staged. Most have a horse for travel as this one did. Thin & loosely tethered.

Days zip by...daily routines are leisurely & naturally take longer w/out standard conveniences. Always a project to do ( just like home), read, cribbage, and water play. Power has been a challenge to keep up with. Since we're in the Southern Hemisphere ( winter) , & have cloudy periods, the solar panels don't always reach full capacity. As wind is a constant here, Paul thinks he should have left up the wind generator.

I continue to be amazed at the many places cruisers originate their sail. A boat was here from Poland. He said he's traveled 33,000 miles to here. The boat looks very sturdy and well traveled as you can imagine.

I'm watching the wild goats traverse the wall. The like one seems to stray then cry. Time for breakfast & prepping for travel.

Take care. Love to hear news (hint for emails). Seems strange to be so far from family & friends. Love, Leslie

Day 3....time to play!

Hello from Tahuata.....When Paul found our lid, a 5' blacktip shark...still one more piece to find before we can grill our fresh yellow tail tuna from a Hiva Oa fisherman.

Enjoying the quiet....warm water and sun. However, it has rained each night from about 7 pm until daylight. The wild goats are a nice change from roosters. They munch their way on the hillside. Sue, I was thinking about the goats you employed to munch the landscape at Birk's.

Will do some laundry today, set up dinghy then go around the coastline exploring. Love Leslie & Paul

Day 2 Paradise....

Hi, Arrived late yesterday to Baie Hanamoenoa on the island of Tahuata southwest of Hiva Oa. There are 7 boats in this anchorage with beautiful white sand beach. As Paul said, "its right out of picture book or movie of a So. Pacific island. The only structure is a "Gilliigan's Island set-a tree branch framed area that might be a place to prepare for a beach meal. We've heard that a local will cook a beach meal for you. Don't know where he lives. 2011 resource show 600 people live in this island.

Today, Paul cleaned off the dirt (at least a first layer) and I made French toast with a carmelized mango (dried) mango)topping. Then, kayaked to shore, swam, and had a yummy fresh tuna, greens & rice dinner.

Paul had to go in to retrieve the top to the grill and sighted a black tip shark (5 feelt') while free diving near our boat. So now I don't know how I feel about swimming here.

A wonderful day with more to come. I hope that summer is off to a time for you to do all that you love about summer. We're holed up inside at since it is as it is pouring again.

Tracking is set for every 12 hrs--I'll send some first day photos tomorrow. Phone power is low so better go now.

Going to a fair??If so, have a cinnamon roll for me! Love Leslie

Afloat after 33 days...

Hi Everyone! The cruising continues! (photo) Just after getting the signal to start our engine, and we headed out. We're in awe that it actually happened. Long day,long story but a quick move once the green light was given.

We are now anchored on the west side of Tahuata a little over 2 miles from Hiva Oa. Headed out to weather ( into the wind) then turned into the channel west.

We're in a sandy beach anchorage with 7 other boats. Lots to explore. Time for swimsuits! (600 population per Charlie's Chart)

Just settling in the night. We'll do watches as we are at anchor but no signs of slippage. FYI only connect to us is via blog & the XGate email. Iridium texting also works. Also, limited power....

Paul just said, "come on tomorrow ...". so looking forward to the possibilities. Love, Leslie & Paul.

Happy Sunday.....

Hi Everyone, 

Still waiting, waiting....

In the meantime, we had a wonderful day observing island life on a Sunday.  After a walk to the bakery and petit dejeuner, we went to 8:00 mass.  ( in heavy rain) It was done in both French and Marquesan which was lovely.    Families were delightful to watch.  It was first communion for the younger children.  The priest came down to the children and talked directly to them.  It seemed serious but some laughing. Loved hearing the older children's choir including a Marquesan drum and guitars which they played at the end of the service.  Later, girls told me that was their rock & roll.  Wonderful to experience.  The service was in French and Marquesan with most of the music Marquesan.  Such harmonic, spirited voices!  Afterwards, families jammed into the  market ( only open until noon & closed for a holiday tomorrow).  Such jubilant exchanges!  

Later we read, I tried to figure out how to download the GoPro then we walked to the boat.  

Note regarding photo-windows are open( no glass) comfortable breeze goes through & very dramatic with the rain.  Woman with the head wreath directed the choir-she seems to have a warm, fun relationship with them.  The boys with the guitars had on white shirts with their board shorts.  There were boys in the chorus, too, but they sat across from the girls and often they sang in response to each other.  

Can you tell I was impressed?  The church was full, and I observed such a warm, happy, family-centered spirit.  

Hope you had a relaxing Sunday, too.  Love Leslie

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Life on the Hard....#4

Sweet, fresh and at our fingertips....
Dad, ideal dark ones and green all on the same bunch. We just have to keep the hens, bird and cats away.

Life on the Hard....#3

Hose water after debris settles(&another rain for 2 days) good for showers (on boat) & first rinse cleaning....adapting....

Life on the hard...#2

Painter (Keemy) who works on "island" time...nice color though....price was right while we're waiting ....

Life on the Hard...#5

All in 1 pot meals....last night's entre was Spanish rice & canned tamales...tasty especially when you're craving Mexican food. Sure wish I could find some tortillas. I did see won ton wraps in the freezer...that might be a good substitute.

Life on the hard...#6

Beautiful view with hopes of rejoining the cruisers after 25 days here in Hiva Oa...almost as long as the crossing.

Dear Annika, we hope you are resting comfortably. So sad to hear of your fall.. Hugs to you as you recover.

Happy June Everyone! We're well but a bit restless. Love, Leslie & Paul

Life on the hard...#1

Toilette (actually flushes) and shower seasoned with minerals (aka mud)...




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